Leashes

Long Lines & Tracking Lines

• Standard Walking Leash / Lead

• Slip Leads (Kennel Lead)

• Bungee Leash

• Retractable

• Exercising Leash/Lines

• Long Lines (Training)

• Tracking lines

• Chew Resistant Leashes

• Hardware Considerations

• Walking Gear You Need

• Teaching Loose Leash Walking

There are several things to consider when selecting a leash or lead and I use these terms interchangeably.  Leashes, leads, and lines are made for specific uses and they come in a variety of material selections and hardware choices.

Regardless of what leash or lead you use it’s important to always inspect anything you use looking for signs of tearing or excessive wear. Webbing breaks and friction will contribute to the wear of the hardware resulting in loosening of the swivel, thinning of the metals, and even stretching of the snap on the head or the swivel. Rust and the environment can also result in the snap bolt trigger starting to stick or becoming rigid. Having a leash snap/break while attached to a 150 lb dog was enough reason for me to always check leashes and collars after that experience. Fortunately the dog was friendly and just wanted to run and greet a neighbor, all be it a little too enthusiastically.  

Standard Walking Leash / Lead

Leashes are made with all types of materials and some of the popular ones are; leather, nylon, rope, hemp, soy, and biothane. Some biothane leashes could be considered as a leather alternative (but not by true leather fans) but some biothane leashes just have the feel of plastic coated webbing and lack the same flexibility and feel as leather. I’m not a fan of rope leashes since they are bulky and heavy, nor am I a fan of paracord leashes which have become more common in recent years. Paracord leashes although strong are one of the most uncomfortable leashes on the hands. See chew resistant below for dogs that mouth or attempt to chew on the leash.

My ideal leash is 6’, strong, lite weight, soft and subtle which increases our awareness of the dog’s movements and location. The weight of the leash will have a lot to do with the metal snap/hook bolt. (see below) Stainless steel being the strongest and brass being the heaviest and my least favorite due to weight. The lightest metal snap/hook bolts will be the nickel plated zinc die cast snaps. (see below)

I don’t recommend leashes with heavy padded or rubber handles, and large “traffic” handles. When holding a leash it should not look like we are water skiing. A lite leash permits you to feel where your dog is and sense the slightest movements.

My favorite leash is the Super-Soft Premium Nylon Snap Leash from Genuine Dog Gear weighing in under 3.3oz. This leash is strong and is the softest leash I have seen and it’s easy on the hands even with strong pullers. Behind the Super-Soft leash my favorite leashes are made with hemp and soy. These are both easier on the hands than nylon.

• Standard nylon 6’, 1” leash 4.5 oz

• Standard nylon 5/8” leash 2.5 - 2.8 oz

• Leather 6’, 5/8” leash 5.9 oz

• Leather 6’, 1/2” leash 5.0 oz

Genuine Dog Gear Super-Soft Nylon Snap Leash (Top Choice)

• Pros: Softest leash, Strong nylon tube webbing, 6’ x 3/4”, Lite weight (3.3 oz), Made in the USA

Caninus Collar Nylon Leash

• Pros: Strong nylon webbing, available in 3/8”, 5/8”, 3/4”, and 1”, Made in the USA

Coastal Pet Soy Lead

• Pros: Softer than nylon, 5/8” width

Earth Dog Hemp Leash

• Pros: Made from hemp, Softer than nylon and easier on the hands, Made in the USA

• Cons: Only available in 1”, The snap hook is thin and harder to manipulate due to its design.

High Quality Leather Leashes from Suzanne Clothier & John Rice

Leather leashes have been a favorite of trainers for years. I can highly recommend the quality leather leashes from Suzanne Clothier and John Rice. All of their leads are hand crafted from top quality English bridle leathers and brass hardware. Edges are beveled, smoothed & lovely to the hand. Braids are tight and precise. Created with attention to detail, these leads are beautiful to the touch. A handful of quality!

If you are one of those people who tie knots in your leash so you are concious of it length, they have a beautiful leash called the “Awareness Lead” made with the same English bridle leather but with added subtle lacing, designed for increased awareness & sophistication in your handling. The leads come in various widths from 1/4” - 3/4” so there is a size appropriate for every dog.

SLIP LEAD / KENNEL LEAD

Slip/Kennel Leads are useful for several purposes. Keep a couple in the vehicle for emergency situations and when walking dogs so you have a way of capturing a loose dog. They are a good management tool in the home. Place strategically around the home they can be used to quickly control a dog at the door to prevent them from running out or jumping on guest. The flat webbing leads fold up nicely and carry well in a pocket. Use a good nylon slip lead if there is any concern a dog may mouth or attempt to chew through the lead. There are economical nylon leads like below but be aware these are a thinner nylon which is easy to chew through. If chewing and cost is not a big concern the hemp leads although expensive are soft on the hands. The British style slip lead is bulky but does maintain a head loop making them easier to use to lasso a dog. They are often made with a soft, solid-braid, polypropylene rope so they are often favored by rescues. There are also 5’ braided poly slip leads which are common in veterinarian offices and vet clinics. These are thin and hard on the hands and dogs neck so they would not be the slip lead I would grab if given the option.

Bungee Leash

I use a bungee leash on occasion for loose leash walking training when I’m working with exceptionally strong pullers and large dogs to minimize/eliminate unintended corrections. A dog hitting the end of the leash will get a large correction so I will often work with the leash shorten and/or a bungee leash to minimize unintended corrections.  

I prefer bungee leashes that just have a small section of stretch like the Kurgo leash but I would not expect this or any other leash to hold up over an extended period to time to constant pulling. The one exception to this is the Howling Dog “Leash With Bungee” which is made from 1” tube webbing and shock cord. This is a strong leash and great for heavy pullers and for those who run with their dog. This is a 5 ½’ leash unstretched with a brass snap hook. I have an older version of this leash which is 6’ and it weighs in at 5.9 oz. One big downside to the Howling Dog bungee leash is the nylon webbing is the roughest I’ve seen and it is hard on the hands. I’ve used this leash for ex-large dogs for loose leash walking training and for running dogs by hooking it to my Rigger’s belt with a quality carabiner.

Chew Resistant

For the vast majority of dogs I prefer to use a standard nylon leash like the Caninus Collar leashes above especially with young puppies. For larger dogs that mouth or grab the leash a double-ply nylon leash will generally prevent a supervised dog from being able to chew through the leash. With these dogs the focus should be on working on the dog’s arousal levels and teaching self-control.

In extreme cases (which is more than rare) and for short-term use I will use a leash that discourages holding or chewing. But it should be rare that this type of leash should be used. My first choice is a lite weight 2mm chain leash. The 4’, 2mm version I have weighs in at 4.3 oz.

Alpine Outfitters the makers of great harnesses also makes chew-proof leashes made with galvanized aircraft cable sheathed with a reflective poly rope in a 5’ length. They make a heavy-duty and a medium-duty versions. I can’t imagine ever needing anything more then the medium duty leash weighting in at 5.6 oz.

Retractable Leash

One leash/lead I never recommend is the retractable type for a multiple of reasons. One big reason and the least of the concerns is that you cannot feel or sense the dog’s movements unless they are pulling but that is the least of the problems. The absolute worst use for a retractable leash is when it is attached to a dog wearing any type of a head halter. It’s bad enough for a dog to receive a sudden stopping jolt when they hit the end of the leash but when wearing a head halter type device you are really endangering the dog.

It’s not unusual to have retractable leashes break when a dog takes off at full speed. There is no shortage of stories of people getting tangled up in the line of retractable leashes and suffering cuts and burns as a result of the line wrapping around a leg or other parts of the body. Another issue is a timid or fearful dog can be terrorized and chased when retractable leashes are accidentally dropped.  

One of the biggest problems with retractable leashes is dogs learn to pull on leash since pulling results in the lead extending. The goal when walking a dog is to maintain no tension in the leash. Do an informal survey. Look to see how many dogs are being walked with a retractable leash walk with constant tension in the leash.

Long Lines (Training Lines)

Palomine Lines are my favorite training long lines. The BioThane rope lines are great because they offer the least resistance when they drag along the ground. This is important for two reasons: some dogs are very conscious of the resistance and they are inhibited from moving. Second we want the least amount of resistance to minimize our dogs from becoming “tool” sensitive. Meaning they are more likely to comply/cooperate only because they sense the “tool” is attached restricting their freedom and limiting their options.

“Palomine Lines are made with BioThane®, an excellent leather alternative. They require little or no maintenance. When they get dirty, they can be wiped down with a damp cloth or washed in a bucket of soapy water. Double riveted with solid brass rivets for extra security, they are made to withstand all environments, terrain and weather. Palomine Lines are made in the USA with components made in the USA, when available. Made-to-order according to customer specification, Palomine Lines are the lines every dog owner/handler wants among their dog training equipment.” https://www.palominelines.com/

Tracking Lines

Palomine Lines are my favorite tracking long lines.

Snap Hooks / Snap bolts

Snap hooks/bolts are available in a variety of configurations and metals. Each has their own strengths and weakness. I believe the breaking strength or Working Load Limit (WLL) of most available snap hooks/bolts are more than sufficient for the majority of dogs. Quality snap hooks/bolts will have stainless steel springs. I generally prefer the traditional snap bolt made from nickel plated zinc die cast metals due to its lighter weight unless attaching a leash to a reactive or aggressive dog and then I recommend a stainless steel or brass snap.

I have found flat carabiner type gate spring snap design (pictured below) is the quickest and easiest to attach to a collar or harness D-ring. The downside of this design is that a 1” or smaller D-ring can twist and work free from this snap thereby creating a safety concern. It is also possible with the larger 1 1/2” - 2” D-rings but it is extremely difficult for this to happen. The thinner boat snap/carabiner type gate design like on the Earth Dog leashes does not have the same issue but I find this design the least easiest to use, but that may be due to a longer history using a traditional snap bolt.

Listed in order of strength.

1. Stainless Steel is strongest and most weather resistant. (Rust proof) However it is expensive and generally weighs more then everything but brass.

2. Nickel Plated Malleable Iron - Malleable iron although it can be harder than steel will not necessarily be stronger due to it being more brittle. (Rust resistant)

3. Nickel Plated Zinc Die Cast  - economical and it’s rust resistant.

4. Brass is rust proof, but heavy and expensive. It is less likely to break because it’s a more malleable metal.

https://henssgenhardware.com

http://www.batzusa.com

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